2023 `Redstone` Riesling, Gunderloch, Rheinhessen, Germany
2023 was an excellent vintage in the Rheinhessen. A cool and wet winter ensured generous water replenishment in the soils. Flowering and the berry set occurred in flawless conditions throughout May and June, and some light water stress in July was beneficial to lower vineyard vigour. Late summer rains were managed with canopy management and crop thinning. Harvest started in mid-September, and fruit quality was exceptional with phenolic tension, concentred juice, and well-balanced acidities.
Gunderloch are one of the Rheinhessen’s most respected producers, known for their complex Rieslings derived from the distinctive, red soils of Roter Hang. Though the estate has over 130 years of history, including a pivotal role in the founding of the Verein Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP), its reputation has been shaped by a willingness to adapt in pursuit of continued quality. As sixth-generation winemaker Johannes Hasselbach explains, “this is an old estate with a long history, but we have to evolve because when nature changes, so do the wines”.
Gunderloch own 24-hectares of vines, most of which are concentrated in Roter Hang (the red hillside), which stretches from Nackenheim in the north to Nierstein in the south. The area, which overlooks the Rhine, takes its name from the distinctive iron-rich red soils formed over 280 million years ago. This combination of red slate, clay and limestone lends a distinctive character and complex minerality to the Riesling grown there. Their Roter Hang vineyards include several Grosses Gewächs shared with producers such as Weingut Keller, including ‘Rothenberg’, ‘Hipping’ and ‘Pettenthal’.
Since taking over from his parents in 2016, Johannes has developed Gunderloch’s viticultural practices, achieving organic certification in 2022. Johannes has put significant focus on improving soil health. The vineyards are now low-tilled with native cover crops planted between rows and solar-powered drones are used to apply biodynamic tea preparations without compacting the earth. In the solar-powered winery, Johannes takes a low-intervention approach to enhance site expression. The ‘pied de cuve’ is cultivated in both the vineyard and cellar, and skin maceration is utilised, with ageing in old oak and cement eggs (particularly on the Grosses Gewächs wines), to bring out the natural phenolics of the fruit.
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